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There are many treks scattered across the Israeli negev desert. All of them are unique, special, isolated, full of wonders and surprises. With that being said, this trek is by far the ultimate desert trek that Israel has to offer. It’s a 4-day trek, taking you deep into the remote Negev highlands, about 30 kilometres west and south of Mitspe Ramon (the small city sitting on the cliffs of the Ramon Crater). 4 days of incredible scenery, no civilization anywhere to be seen, 2 hidden craters in the middle of nowhere, narrow crevices, small pools in riverbeds filled by flash floods, and for the grand finale an ascent to the Karkom Mountain, a mountain littered with ancient rock engravings that some believe might be the famous Sinai Mountain from the bible. Important note: this trek is located deep inside an active military training area. For this reason, it is available for trekking only during Hannukah and Passover.
The trek starts at the farthest western point of the Ramon Crater. The first day takes us up to the highest peak in the Negev Highlands – Mt. Ramon, overlooking the Ramon Crater and the mysterious K line. The second day takes us deeper into the desert and to Mt. Arif, the mountain overlooking the two small hidden craters. The third day leads us up to Mt. Haspas, Wadi Karkom and the Karkom mountain ridge. The last day is the grand finale. You’ll finish the trek on Mt. Karkom, where you’ll be amazed by the abundance of amazing rock engravings and an ancient desert temple.
This trek is incredible and unique on so many levels, but it’s important to keep in mind that the trek is extremely complicated for a few reasons. First of all, the entire trek is located in an active military training area that is open for trekkers only during Hannukah vacation (around December) and Passover vacation (around March-April). It is highly dangerous to hike this trek at any other time. Another reason is the isolation that characterizes this trek which means that you do not have access to cell phone reception everywhere (just on the peaks for the most part) which makes it difficult, in cases of emergency, to call for help and for the help to arrive. The trek is fairly expensive because you have to pay for some of the transportation in and out of the trek and you have to pay for water caches for every night. With all that being said, I highly recommend this trek if you’re interested in desert trekking in Israel, no other desert trek can truly compare to this one.
Trek Summary
Days: 4
Kilometres: 65
Best Season: Hannukah and Passover
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Geographical Area in Israel: Western Negev Highlands
The important details you need to know in order to hike this trek:
Detailed map link
Seasons for Trekking
As I mentioned above, this trek is open for trekking only during the Hannukah and Passover vacations. The dates vary every year because these holidays follow the Hebrew Calendar. There are pros and cons for hiking this trek during Hannukah or Passover. Passover falls on early or late spring, depending on the year, so the desert is in full bloom and could be incredible, but it can also fall on heat waves, and then the trek can become extremely difficult (I would not recommend hiking this trek during a heat wave). During Hannukah the nights can be extremely cold (plummeting to below 0), but the days can be really nice and sunny. During both holidays flash floods can occur, beware of them and make sure to check the weather report before you head out. Do not attempt to hike this trek during heavy rain. For more on seasons in Israel here.
Transportation
Unfortunately, this trek is not accessible by public transportation on account of it being so isolated. The trek begins at the trail heading to Mt. Ramon. If you have a car, you can park it for the duration of the trek at Borot Lotz (The Lotz Cisterns) – a great campsite right across the road from the trail to Mt. Ramon. To get to Borot Lotz, about five kilometres north of Mitspe Ramon, take a right to Route 171, drive straight for about half an hour until you reach the dirt track to Borot Lotz (there will be a sign). Follow the dirt track to the campsite and park your car (it’s fairly safe to leave it here).
If you don’t have a car, you can reach Mitspe Ramon by bus from Be’er Sheva (there are hourly buses to and from, for the bus schedule here.). From Mitspe Ramon you’ll need to get a ride to Borot Lotz, this should cost about 350 nis. You could try and hitchhike to Borot Lotz from the “Haruot Junction”, but it could take a lot of time since route 171 leads only to Borot Lotz (for hikers and travelers) and to some army bases.
You’ll finish the trek at Mt. Karkom and from there you will need a 4 by 4 vehicle in order to get back to your car in Borot Lotz or to Mitspe Ramon. This can cost 1100 nis (per vehicle). I’d recommend contacting Yanir Bamidbar for the transportation (who also does the water caches), you can check out Yanir's website for more info and orders.
Water Supply
You may find some water wells or pools along the trek, but it is not advisable in Israel to drink from springs and pools due to the fact that people swim in them, they may be contaminated by different animals and sometimes by factories that are far from the eye but can contaminate the springs and pools. When you trek in the desert first of all use your water wisely. You should be carrying at least 4.5 litres per person per full day of trekking (6 if the weather is hot). That can be pretty heavy if you’re carrying water for more than two days. The solution for this can be water caches at your campsite. This can either be done by yourself via a four by four vehicle and a few days ahead of your trek or by someone with a jeep who can do this for you for a fee (It depends on where the cache is, but it can cost around 80 nis per person per night). If you’re planning on cooking by campfire (or just want to enjoy a campfire every night), you should also arrange some fire wood, since burning any local vegetation is forbidden
If, like me, you don’t own or rent a four by four vehicle, I recommend paying someone to do your water caches, they can also bring you fire wood at an extra fee (about 70 nis per night). There are a few people who do this in the desert area and for the Arif-Karkom trek. I recommend contacting Yanir Bamidbar. You can check out Yanir's website for more info. You can also contact Yanir for transportation to Borot Lotz and from Mt. Karkom back to Mitspe Ramon.
Food
You’ll have to carry your food with you for the whole trek (four days). You can buy everything you need in Mitspe Ramon at the Super market.
Side Note
If you’d like to hike with a small pack for the duration of the trek, you can arrange with Yanir or other operators in the area, a full deal where a four by four vehicle meets you every evening at your campsite with your night gear, food and water. Of course, the cost for this will be much higher than just arranging water caches and a ride at the end of the trek.
Precautions and Dangers
1. Military training area- The whole trek is located in a military training area and firing zone. It’s a highly active area, so as I mentioned before, do not attempt to hike this trek without coordination with the army (usually only during Hannukah and Passover they open up the area for hikers). You can call this number in order to coordinate with them: 08-9902926/8 For more on Military training areas here.
2. Flash floods - The desert area in Israel is prone to flash floods. The lack of vegetation in the desert and the type of soil make it hard for water to seep down. When there is enough rain in the desert, it flows on top of the surfaces to the lowest places- river beds. Most of the riverbeds in the desert are dry all year round, except for a few days when it rains. The rivers then come to life, and it is very dangerous to be hiking in a riverbed during a flash flood. In some areas it can be raining even a few kilometres upriver from where you are and the flash flood will come out of nowhere, splashing down the riverbed and taking everything it can with it. The tricky part about flash foods is that the riverbed does not flood gradually, it comes at you at lightning speed. Precautions for flash floods:
a. Check the weather in the destinated hiking area before you leave.
b. Do not attempt to hike if there is a rainy weather report.
c. If you do find yourself in the desert during rain, make sure to get out of any riverbed near you, climb to the highest, safest point you can get to and enjoy the view. If there are flash floods around you, it can keep flowing for hours and even days, contact someone to get you out of there safely.
3. Heat stroke- It gets hot during the day in the desert, even in freezing January. The days are hot and the nights are cold. Make sure to always wear a sun hat, take long breaks in the shade and refreshen yourself in pools and springs along the way.
4. Dehydration- Even during Hannukah and especially during Passover the days can get pretty hot. Remember to drink a lot, do not take less than 4.5 litres of water with you per day per person. You should wear sunglasses, a hat and a long-sleeved shirt. If you’re feeling dizzy, nauseous or/and have a headache, you’re probably dehydrated. Find a shade to rest and drink your water slowly and gradually.
5. Animals- There aren’t many big dangerous animals in the desert. Beware of snakes and scorpions, especially during the spring time and around your campsite. In the morning shake your boots before you put them on and beware when you pick up rocks.
6. Cell phone reception- The campsites and most of the trails do not have cell phone reception. But in most of the area, if you try ascending to the hills and peaks surrounding you, you can usually find cell reception. If you feel you need more reassurance you can rent a satellite phone from a few companies in Israel. I recommend “Small World”. You can contact them at this e-mail - info@small-world.us
7. Nature reserves- a lot of the trek passes through some amazing nature reserves. Make sure you know the basic guidelines to hiking in nature reserves in Israel. For more on nature reserves here.
If you find yourself in an emergency situation, you can call for help. Call 100 for the police and they can connect you with the regional rescue team. You can also call 101 for medical assistance. The direct number for the rescue team in the Negev region is 050-6276619.
Trail Description
Day 1
After you’ve parked your car at Borot Lotz, take the red and green trail marks, that are parallel to the blue trail you followed to the parking spot, (for more on trail marks in Israel here) that take you back to route 171. Walk for about 500 metres along the route towards the red trail mark that leads to Mt. Ramon (if you paid for a ride just get off here).
Take the red trail and then black that ascends to Mt. Ramon, the third highest peak in Israel (after the Meron and the Hermon mountains), reaching 1033 metres. At the peak you’ll enjoy a great view of the western most tip of the Ramon Crater (craters in Israel are geological craters, meaning they were formed by millions of years of different geological processes). You’ll notice a few rock mounds and one long line of rocks that look manmade. These are archaeological finds, all part of the mysterious K line – a line built by rocks that passes through the two highest peaks in the area (about 5 kilometres), archaeologists claim that it is part of a religious ancient ritual.
From Mt. Ramon you can take a few trails to Mt. Iddo. The shortest route would be taking the purple (Negev highlands trail) to the Arod viewpoint and then to Mt. Iddo. The moderate trail that I took and recommend is the red trail from Mt. Ramon, that leads you on a beautiful trail on the northern cliffs of the Ramon crater and dives into the crater before heading up to Mt. Iddo.
After about two and a half kilometres the red trail will lead you down into the Ramon crater. Inside the Ramon crater, make sure to look for the interesting geological formations – the basalt hills, colorful sandstone and more. After three kilometres inside the crater, the red trail will lead you up to the ascent to Mt. Iddo. The mountain overlooks the Ramon Crater from the southwest and the peak is filled with Rujum – an Arabic word meaning rocks piled up on eachother. Rujums used to be the way to show different paths that lead to water or home. You can also find huge Rujums on top of ancient graves scattered across Israel. The Rujums on Mt. Iddo were piled up by travelers wanting to leave something behind.
From Mt. Iddo follow the red trail leading until it meets the blue 4 by 4 vehicle trail. From there, head east on the blue trail towards the Be’erot Oded campsite, here you will spend the night.
Day 2
From the Be’erot Oded campsite take the green trail mark heading south and then the black 4 by 4 trail leading down the Arod Wadi (stream bed) that flows south east, until you meet the Oded water wells (about 400 metres after the black trail meets the green). The water wells are hidden between high bushes on the north side of the river bed. There are three wells, and at least some of them hold water all year round. We found one water well filled with slightly salty water, but we could drink from it.
From the water wells, find the green trail mark (fit for hikers and not vehicles) heading south and follow it. There will be a sign towards Mt. Arif, on the south side of the riverbed. You’ll follow the green marked trail for about 9 kilomtres to Mt. Arif. The path will take you up a small mountain ridge, you’ll cross one beautifully green riverbed, then up another ridge until you reach the second riverbed.
You’ll follow the trail down the riverbed for about a kilometre and a half. Then up another small ridge and then into a riverbed that will take you up to the pass of Mt. Arif. The green trail is pretty clear and should be easy to follow.
At the pass you’ll meet a short blue trail that will take you up to Mt. Arif. The mountain sits in between the two Arif craters and you’ll have a beautiful clear view of them at the top.
From Mt. Arif go back down to the pass and follow the blue trail that descends the mountain along the Ma’azer riverbed for about 3 kilomtres. The trail marks can get lost a bit inside the river bed, make sure you’re following the marks because the river branches out in a few places along the trail. You’ll find your second campsite where the blue trail meets a red 4 by 4 vehicle trail.
Day 3
Head back on the blue trail you came from on the day before, for about a kilometre, until you meet the black trail heading south. Take the black trail along the river bed until you meet the green 4 by 4 vehicle trail that heads southeast (down a different riverbed). Once you’re on the green trail, look to your left (east), you’ll see the small western crater and its drainage basin.
You’ll follow the green trail for about a kilomtre and a half, it’s inside a nice riverbed with lots of desert vegetation. After a kilomtre and a half look for the black trail that takes you south and out of the river bed. It can be easy to miss, so be alert for it. The black trail will take you up and down some beautiful ridges and streams (you’ll spot a nice acacia tree in one of the streams), at some point the trail will start ascending up to Mt. Haspas. The mountain has a nice view and its cliffs are really impressive.
From Mt. Haspas the black trail takes you downriver along the Bruka river. After a kilomtre and a half the trail ascends to a small mountain ridge and descends back to wadi Karkom. Make sure you’re following the black trail, the ascent and descent can be a bit unclear. Once you’re in wadi Karkom you’ll be walking upriver until the Karkom well (usually empty) and the Karkom well campsite.
From here you have 2 options:
1. Camp at the Karkom well (after a fairly short day), and the next and last day will be a full hiking day.
2. Make the third day longer and keep on hiking until the Mt. Karkom campsite. You’ll camp here and the fourth day will be a short half day that can be solely dedicated to roaming around Mt. Karkom. The way back to Borot Lotz can take up to two hours by car, so you’ll want to leave the area around noon time and not too late into the night.
The trail description is the same for any option, I will describe in detail here the second option.
From the Karkom well, find the black trail path that ascends up to the Karkom mountain ridge. It’s a pretty high ascent – about 230 metres ascend. It should take about an hour to reach the mountain ridge.
Once you reach the mountain ridge, the black trail will take you up and down small peaks and passes, you’ll have beautiful views to the east and to the west. After about 5 kilomtres you’ll reach the actual Karkom Mountain. You’ll be walking on a high plain that’s tainted in black because of the flint that covers this mountain. The trail marks aren’t very clear here, be on alert for them, they can be easy to miss. At this point you can start looking out for some rock engravings, along the trail you’ll see some rujums (rocks piled on top of eachother like in Mt. Iddo) that usually indicate rock engravings on the mountain.
You’ll reach a trail junction where you’ll meet the blue trail mark. Follow it down towards the west, it will descend until the Mt. Karkom campsite.
You can camp here for your last night.
Day 4
If you slept at the Karkom well campsite, follow the trail description from above until the mountain and descend to the campsite on either the blue or black trail (depending on how much time you have). Your ride back to Borot Lotz or Mitspe Ramon should meet you at the Mt. Karkom campsite.
Either way I’d recommend heading out towards Mistpe Ramon at around 14:00 if it’s Hannukah and around 17:00 if it’s Passover. That way you’ll get to enjoy the beautiful views on the ride back when it’s still light outside.
If you slept at the Mt. Karkom campsite – you have the entire day to enjoy the mountain! I recommend heading back up to the mountain on the black trail. It’s a beautiful path up to the Karkom mountain peak. Enjoy the views and then follow the black trail to the temple at the far eastern edge of the mountain. The temple is dated back to the Paleolithic age, about 30,000 years ago!
From the temple, take the blue trail. Along the blue trail you’ll find hundreds of rock engravings, most of them dated back to the Bronze age, although not all. There are more than 40,000 rock engravings on this mountain! Amongst the rock engravings, you’ll find a lot of ibex, wolves and other predators, hunting scenes, people holding up abstract figures, and even an engraving that is said to be the 10 amendments! Roam around and look for them, you’ll find different rock engravings on almost every big black rock in the area.
The blue trail will lead you back down to the Mt. Karkom campsite. You’ll have to arrange for a ride from the campsite to Borot Lotz or to Mitspe Ramon. The ride will take you through the red vehicle trail to route 10. Route 10 is closed all year around, except for the Jewish holidays (Hannukah, Passover, Sukot) which is part of the reason that this trek is unavailable during the rest of the year. This route has some incredible desert views, it’s totally isolated, and it mostly runs along the border with Egypt. For me, the drive back was really part of the whole adventure of the trek.
I hope you enjoyed this really incredible trek! I’d love to hear your thoughts and comments! Contact me here, or comment below!
*Disclaimer*
It is the responsibility of the users of this website to be prepared for all possible conditions while trekking in Israel. Beware that conditions of trails may change day to day and season to season. All users of this website and its information assume full responsibility for their actions and judgments while trekking. The owner and authors of this site disclaims all liability including that of accident, loss, injury, or any other damage that may be sustained by anyone using the information contained on this website.