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The second lock down in Israel had just started to open up. We’re finally able to go out, breathe air, meet friends, open up our homes and hearts. So, the first thing I do is open up a map.
I instinctively go for a map of the near desert- the Negev desert. After constructing an awesome trek I realize that this might not be the best of all times for a southern desert trek. The best time for desert trekking is November to April. It’s the middle of October now, so the days are still pretty hot. There are a few springs along the way but most of the amazing pools that are filled by flashfloods during the winter, will be empty. This trek will be much more fabulous during the winter and spring season. Maybe I should head north? But the desert is calling me, the vast open spaces, as far as the eye can see. I crave it, especially during these hard times and especially after a long, hot, dry summer when actual trekking in the desert was impossible. So, I went for it, despite the difficulties, it will be worth it!
This trek takes us through the wonderful vast Zin Valley. We’ll start the trek in Sde Boker, near Ben Gurion’s burial site, cross the Zin Valley, climb to the Divshon high land, dive into Ein Akev Spring, explore Ein Shaviv jungle and sleep in a campsite near Hod Akev. In the morning, we’ll wake up before dawn, climb Hod Akev (“tip of the heel”) and enjoy the sunrise from up above. We’ll continue from there to Zror pool, climb to Zror mountain and finish back at Ben Gurion’s grave.
Trek Summary
Days: 2
Kilometres: 35 (the longest option)
Best Season: Autumn to Spring
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Geographical Area in Israel: Central Negev
So, let’s dive in with the important logistics that you need to know in order to hike this trek.
Detailed Map
Seasons for Trekking
The best time for desert trekking in Israel is November to April. If Febuary and March are an option for you, these are the best months to enjoy incredible wildflowers in the desert. Make sure to check out Seasons in Israel for more information!
Transportation
By Car- If you have a car, you’re welcome to park at the Ben Gurion’s grave site parking space. It’s fairly safe to leave a car there for a few days. This is a loop trek, so you will arrive back at your car within two days. The parking is free of charge.
Public transportation- There are buses leaving the central bus station in Be’er Sheva that arrive at Ben Gurion’s Grave about every hour from morning to evening. To view the bus schedule here. You can type in “Be’er Sheva central bus station” for the starting point. “Sde Boker gadna center” for the destination. For the trip back just reverse the route. You should know that this bus can get crowded, especially on Saturday evenings from Sde Boker to Be'er Sheva. Don't rely on the last bus, in case there is no free space on it. Keep in mind that public transportation in Israel stops working during Shabbat- From Friday evening to Saturday evening.
Make sure to check out how to trek using public transportation in Israel!
Water supply
During the trek you will come along Ein (spring in Hebrew) Akev. It is not advisable in Israel to drink from springs and pools due to the fact that people swim in them, they may be contaminated by different animals and sometimes by factories that are far from the eye but can contaminate the springs and pools. When you trek in the desert first of all use your water wisely. You should be carrying at least 4.5 litres per person per full day of trekking. That can be pretty heavy if you’re carrying water for more than two days. Keep in mind that you need water for the evenings as well - for cooking and drinking during the night. The solution for this can be water caches at your campsite. This can either be done by yourself via a four by four vehicle and a few days ahead of your trek or by someone with a jeep who can do this for you for a small fee (It depends on where the cache is, but it can cost around 80 nis per person). If you’re planning on cooking by campfire, you should also arrange some fire wood, since burning any local vegetation is forbidden. If, like me, you don’t own or rent a four by four vehicle, I recommend paying someone to do your water caches, they can also bring you fire wood at an extra fee (around 70 nis). There are a few people who do this in the desert area. I recommend contacting Yanir Bamidbar. You can check out Yanir's website for more info.
Food
You’ll need to bring your food supply with you. You can find almost everything in the supermarkets in Be’er Sheva. In Sde boker you also have a small store, but the supply there is limited and the opening hours are short. I recommend packing light, nutritious food. An easy lunch that you can eat along the way and a dinner that you can cook at the campsite (with stove or campfire).
Precautions and dangers
1. Flashfloods. The desert area in Israel is prone to flash floods. The lack of vegetation in the desert and the type of soil make it hard for water to seep down. When there is enough rain in the desert, it flows on top of the surfaces to the lowest places- river beds. Most of the riverbeds in the desert are dry all year round, except for a few days when it rains. The rivers then come to life, and it is very dangerous to be hiking in a riverbed during a flash flood. In some areas it can be raining even a few kilometres upriver from where you are and the flash flood will come out of nowhere, splashing down the riverbed and taking everything it can with it. The tricky part about flash foods is that the riverbed does not flood gradually, it comes at you at lightning speed.
Precautions for flash floods:
a. Check the weather in the destinated hiking area before you leave.
b. Do not attempt to hike if there is a rainy weather report.
c. If you do find yourself in the desert during rain, make sure to get out of any riverbed near you, climb to the highest, safest point you can get to and enjoy the view. If there are flash floods around you, it can keep flowing for hours and even days, contact someone to get you out of there safely.
2. Military training areas- Ein Shaviv is the only part of the trek that passes through the tip of a military training area. The area usually opens up during weekends, and the Israel Nation trail passes through this area, so it can be open also on weekdays. You can call this number in order to coordinate with them: 08-9902928. They might ask for the trail numbers, you can find them on the map at the "Israel Hiking Map" link above. For more on trekking in military training areas here!
2. Heat stroke- It gets hot during the day in the desert, even in freezing January. The days are hot and the nights are cold. Make sure to always wear a sun hat, take long breaks in the shade (there isn't a lot of shade, so choose your shade wisely) and refreshen yourself in pools and springs along the way.
3. Dehydration- the desert is hot and dry. Make sure to always take enough water (at least 4.5 litre per person per day) and drink gradually along the day.
4. Animals- There aren’t many big dangerous animals in the desert. Beware of snakes and scorpions, especially during the spring time and around your campsite. In the morning shake your boots before you put them on and beware when you pick up rocks.
If you find yourself in an emergency situation, you can call for help. Call 100 for the police and they can connect you with the regional rescue team. You can also call 101 for medical assistance. The direct number for the rescue team in the Negev region is 050-6276619.
Trail description-
Day 1
Your starting point is the Sde Boker Midrasha Gadna bus station. From there just follow the signs to Ben Gurion’s Burial site. You’ll find the red trail mark (for more on trail marks in Israel here) that will lead you down into the Zin Valley.
Find the road that was parallel to your trail, and that also leads to the Zin Valley. Walk along the road for a about 50 meters until you meet the green trail facing you that will lead you south to a half hour ascent up to the Divshon high land. From there the trail will lead you through about 6 easy kilometres until the waterfall of Ein Akev spring. Here you can climb down the ladder and enjoy a refreshing dip in the spring. It can get pretty crowded during weekends and holidays.
From here you have a few options. They’ll appear here as a list from the easiest to the most difficult (and the most rewarding). The map from the link above shows the third option only. You can easily find the other trails on the same map and see the other options.
1. Follow the blue and then red hiking trail (also the Israel national trail) that will take you up to Hod Akev- a beautiful small mountain, inside the Zin Valley, that gives you a great view of the surrounding area. (You can climb it now or the following morning if you decide on one of the other options). If this is your option, you’ll follow the red trail all the way to the top of Hod Akev and then continue down to the Hod Akev campsite, where you’ll spend the night. On Hod Akev ascent and descent be sure to tread carefully, there are a few places where the trail is narrow between a wall and a hanging cliff. It’s challenging especially with a big heavy pack. There are some ladders there to help you. You'll spot these trails on the map link from above.
2. Climb back up the ladders from Ein Akev and follow the green trail and then the blue trail that is a shortcut to the Ein Shaviv jungle. You'll see these trails on the map link from above.
3. Climb back up the ladders and walk the black (also the Israel national trail) trail mark to the upper Ein Akev spring (upriver to Ein Akev spring), about half an hour hike. Here you won’t find a lot of spring water, but there is a lot of water vegetation that gives the desert a refreshing look. It’s usually much quieter here, so you might see some Ibex and you’ll find a beautiful lone Atlantic terebinth tree, that’s here as a reminder that there used to be a cooler climate here, a few hundred years ago. From here you’ll follow the blue hiking trail (also the Israel nation trail) to Ein Shaviv, around a two-hour hike. This option is traced on the map link from above.
If you're heading to Ein Shaviv jungle, make sure you coordinate the military training area with the army (only Ein Shaviv is located inside the training area).
Ein Shaviv is a beautiful spring that flows on the surface making the ground water here fairly high (there’s usually no pool to dip in). The ground water grows a beautiful jungle of palm trees, Populus trees and more. You should roam and lose yourself walking around the trails that crisscross the jungle, you’ll forget you’re in the desert.
From Ein Shaviv follow the green four by four trail mark for 6 easy kilometres until the Hod Akev campsite, where you’ll spend the night. It is forbidden to sleep inside a nature reserve not in an official campsite. For more on trekking in nature reserves. Formal campsites in the desert are usually just open spaces that have fire pits and where you’re allowed to pitch up a tent. The campsites are there so hikers and travelers won’t sleep near protected areas for animals that roam the night.
Day 2
If you picked option 2 or 3 yesterday, you should attempt climbing Hod Akev today! It’s around an hour ascent, and if you’re really adventurous you should start climbing at dawn and enjoy the sunrise at the top. Just follow the red trail, it’s about a kilometre and a half and a return trip to the top. The whole round trip should take you about 2-3 hours max.
When you get back to the campsite, follow the green and then the black four by four trail marks until you meet the blue mark. It’s about a kilometre and a half to the blue markings. When you meet the blue mark follow it upriver. You’re in Wadi Zaror now, it’s a pretty narrow dry river bed with very interesting local fauna, including some acacia trees that offer shade. After around two kilometres you’ll arrive at the Zaror pool, which is full of water after the first flash flood of the season. You can swim in the pool.
Keep on ascending and following the blue mark, you can make the short return trip to the Zaror Mountain lookout. The trail will become a blue four by four trail, follow it until you get to Mezad Zin - one of the many archaeological sites scattered along the spice trail. The spice trail is an ancient trail from the Roman era that transferred special spices from Sheba (in today’s Yemen) across the Saudi Arabia desert, through Petra (Jordon) and the Negev desert to Gaza.
From Mezad Zin you can take the green path which will take you straight to Ben Gurion’s Grave. Congrats, you’ve finished your two-day trek! From here you can reunite with your car or take the bus back to Be’er Sheva.
Hope you enjoyed the trek! I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments! Contact me here. Or comment below.
*Disclaimer*
It is the responsibility of the users of this website to be prepared for all possible conditions while trekking in Israel. Beware that conditions of trails may change day to day and season to season. All users of this website and its information assume full responsibility for their actions and judgments while trekking. The owner and authors of this site disclaims all liability including that of accident, loss, injury, or any other damage that may be sustained by anyone using the information contained on this website.