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It’s December and the desert has come to life. Beautiful sunny days, soothing winds, refreshing pools filled from the flashfloods and ancient cities that come to life. This time, I set off to explore the Judean desert. I wanted a trek that would include the famous Masada fortress, but also roam one of the most impressive rivers in the area – the Ze’elim river! This trek is incredible because the logistics are super easy (public transportation friendly) and the trek has everything that a trek through Israel should have – a piece of history, springs in the middle of the desert, amazing stars and some breathtaking viewpoints.
The wonderful thing about this trek is that it takes you to one of the most touristic places in Israel, Masada, but from a very unique and different direction. The trek begins at the foothills of the Masada national park, the trails will lead you into the Ze'elim Wadi, a beautiful river that's dry most of the year, but after a flashflood the pools and springs fill up and the river comes to life. After a night spent under the stars, the trail will lead you through these amazing viewpoints of the Judean Desert in all its glory. And then to the foothills of the Roman-built ramp, leading straight up to Masada.
Trek Summary
Days: 2
Kilometres: 30
Best Season: Autumn to Spring
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Geographical Area in Israel: South Judean Desert
The important details you need to know in order to hike this trek:
Detailed map link
Seasons for Trekking
The perfect time to hike this trek is during December-March, by then the pools will usually be full of water, the weather will be great and you’ll enjoy green scenery in the desert. If these months aren’t an option, the trek is suitable (weather wise) from October to April. Be aware that flash floods do occur in this area during this season, and most of the trek is situated in a narrow riverbed. Make sure to check the weather report before you head out. Do not attempt to hike this trek during heavy rain. Make sure to check out seasons in Israel for more infomation.
Transportation
This trek is a loop trek and it’s easily accessible by car and by bus! The trek begins on the road leading to Masada National Park. You can park you car right before the roundabout on the southern side, you’ll see a small outdoor parking lot (free of charge and fairly safe). You can take a bus from Jerusalem to the same roundabout, where the trek begins. For the bus scedule here. Enter Jerusalem central bus station and Masade Center (not junction) for the destination. Keep in mind that public transportation does not operate from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening, check out my post how to trek using public transportation in Israel for more!
Water Supply
You may find some pools along the trek in different river beds, but it is not advisable in Israel to drink from springs and pools. This is due to the fact that people swim in them, they may be contaminated by different animals and sometimes by factories that are far from the eye but can contaminate the springs and pools. When you trek in the desert, first of all use your water wisely. You should be carrying at least 4.5 litres per person per full day of trekking (6 if the weather is hot). Keep in mind that you need water for the campsites, for cooking and drinking during the night. That can be pretty heavy if you’re carrying water for more than two days.
On this trek you’ll need to carry at least 9 litres. If that’s too heavy for you, you can arrange water caches at your campsite. If you’re planning on cooking by campfire, you should also arrange some fire wood, since burning any local vegetation is forbidden.
The campsite for this trek is Birkat Tzfira, and it’s accessible by any private vehicle (about a half hour drive from Arad). So, if you’re coming by car and you have a few hours before you head out to your trek, you can do the water caches by yourself. If you'd rather pay someone to do the water caches for you, I recommend contacting Ali- a local Beduin who knows everything there is to know about the area, just send him a watsapp: 052-2291439. Yanir is also a great option for water caches, you can check out Yanir's website for more info.
Food
You’ll have to carry your food with you for the two days. If you’d like, Shir can also arrange a food cache and even cook you an amazing dinner (she’s an outdoors chef).
Precautions and Dangers
1. Flash floods - The desert area in Israel is prone to flash floods. The lack of vegetation in the desert and the type of soil make it hard for water to seep down. When there is enough rain in the desert, it flows on top of the surfaces to the lowest places- river beds. Most of the riverbeds in the desert are dry all year round, except for a few days when it rains. The rivers then come to life, and it is very dangerous to be hiking in a riverbed during a flash flood. In some areas it can be raining even a few kilometres upriver from where you are and the flash flood will come out of nowhere, splashing down the riverbed and taking everything it can with it. The tricky part about flash foods is that the riverbed does not flood gradually, it comes at you at lightning speed.
Precautions for flash floods:
a. Check the weather in the destinated hiking area before you leave.
b. Do not attempt to hike if there is a rainy weather report.
c. If you do find yourself in the desert during heavy rain, make sure to get out of any riverbed near you, climb to the highest, safest point you can get to and contact someone for help. If there are flash floods around you, it can keep flowing for hours and even days, contact someone to get you out of there safely.
Take note that this trek takes you to a narrow river called the Ze’elim river. It is extremely dangerous to be hiking in the river during heavy rain and a flashflood warning. Check the weather report in the morning and do not head out if there is even a small chance of rain!
3. Heat stroke- It can get hot during the day in the desert, even in freezing January. The days are hot and the nights are cold. Make sure to always wear a sun hat, take long breaks in the shade and refreshen yourself in pools and springs along the way.
4. Dehydration- The desert can get really hot, and it is usually very dry. Even during the winter season, remember to drink a lot. Do not take less than 4.5 litres of water with you per day per person. You should wear sunglasses, a hat and a long-sleeved shirt. If you’re feeling dizzy, nauseous or/and have a headache, you’re probably dehydrated. Find a shade to rest and drink your water slowly and gradually.
5. Animals- There aren’t any big dangerous animals in the desert. Beware of snakes and scorpions, especially during the spring time and around your campsite. In the morning shake your boots before you put them on and beware when you pick up rocks.
6. Cell phone reception- The campsite and the second day inside the Ze’elim river there is no cell phone reception. If you feel you need more reassurance you can rent a satellite phone from a few companies in Israel. I recommend “Small World”. You can contact them at this e-mail - info@small-world.us
7. Nature reserves- a lot of the trek passes through some amazing nature reserves. Make sure you know the basic guidelines to hiking in nature reserves in Israel. Make sure to check how to trek in nature reserves.
If you find yourself in an emergency situation, you can call for help. Call 100 for the police and they can connect you with the regional rescue team. You can also call 101 for medical assistance. The direct number for the rescue team in the Judean Desert region is 054-7431302.
Trail Description
Day 1
Whether you’re coming by car or by bus, from the roundabout look for the red trail mark heading south, along the cliffs to the west (for more on trail marks in Israel). The roundabout is the main entrance to Masada national park. You’ll be coming back here tomorrow from above. Tomorrow you’ll see Masada from some viewpoints that most people don’t get to enjoy! From here until the end of the day, the trail marks colours change constantly. Make sure you’re on the right trail mark, in the right direction and that it fits the description written here. The red trail mark is pretty easy and it will take you to the beginning of the Ze’elim wadi (river). The beginning of the trail may be a bit hard to find from the roundabout itself. At the roundabout you’ll find a small rangers hut, take the road to the right of the hut heading up, and look for the red markings heading north. Once you find the red marks, the route will be clear and very easy to follow, crossing a few dry low streams. Along the way you’ll find some Roman ruins and some beautiful views of the dead sea and the Moav Mountains in Jordan on the other side.
After 4 kilometres the trail will start heading west, above the Ze’elim river but parallel to it. The trail will bypass the Anava river and its dry waterfall. After the bypass, look for the blue trail mark heading down into the Ze’elim river, (there will be a sign marking the way). Take the blue trail heading down into the river until you meet the black trail mark. There will be a sign, take the trail mark west heading upriver into the Ze’elim river.
Here, you will find a trail that is hidden between huge boulders - you’ll climb, straddle, bend over and duck around these boulders (and pools after flashfloods). It’s a great workout and an incredible trail. It takes around an hour and a half to do these 2 kilometres, so make sure you have time and patience! Keep in mind that the trail marks aren’t always very clear, and heading upriver around these boulders can be tricky.
After about 2 kilometres the trail will turn green (follow it west into the riverbed), and after 500 metres the trail will split into two options – 1. The black trail mark will lead you deep into an impressive canyon, this canyon might have deep water pools after flashfloods that you have to cross. 2. The green trail mark will leal you above the canyon and parellel to it, still an impressive trail. Either way, the canyon is only about 700 meters long, afterwards the trails converge and become green again.
After about 500 metres the green trail will start to ascend away from the river. At this point, you want to find the red trail that keeps heading upriver. The red trail will take you into Ein Namer ('leopard spring'), a beautiful spring that creates a pool almost all year around under some giant boulders.
From Ein Namer you’ll find the black trail mark heading outside the river (to the northern riverbank). After a small climb up you will meet a blue trail, here you will want to follow the blue trail that heads west (parallel to the river, going upriver).
You will follow the blue trail mark for about 5 kilometres inside the river. You’ll find that the route here is easy and beautiful with the rivers’ cliffs hanging above your head.
After about five kilometres in the river the blue trail will head up outside of the river (look for the huge waterfall in front of you, you will be at the top of the waterfall by the end of the day). The ascent can be a bit difficult with ladders and some narrow trails along the cliffs. Tread carefully, it should be about a 45-minute climb up.
Once you get to the top you will walk along the cliffs until you meet a green trail. This trail will take you on a small return trip to Birkat Tzfira, an incredible pool right above the huge waterfall you saw from inside the river.
After the first flashflood of the season there are two pools at the top, you will have to dip inside the first one in order to enjoy the full view at the top of the waterfall.
After you enjoy the lookout and the pools, go back up the green trail and find the blue trail again. Head west on the blue trail, it will take you down to a black vehicle trail mark. Follow the black trail south for about 500 metres, until you meet a green trail that will take you up to the Birkat Tzfira campsite. Here you will camp for the night, it can get extremely cold here so take good camping gear with you!
Day 2
From the campsite, look for the red trail (right above the campsite, to the east). It is also the Israel Nation Trail (INT). This trail is pretty easy, it will start at a gradual ascent and you will see the Ze’elim river, and the cliffs surrounding it, from up above along the way.
You will meet a few junctions along the way, first a blue trail mark (heading up to the Gorani Lookout if you feel like a short climb up and back down), then a green trail. Keep hiking along the red trail for about 4-5 kilometres. After the junction with the green trail you will start to feel a gradual descent. The red trail and the INT will split up at this point, you can save yourself a kilometre and walk on the INT trail, or follow the red trail down into a small river and then take the blue trail heading out of this river and meet the INT again. The detour has its charm, but you can skip it if you’re low on time.
Either way, the trail from this point will change to blue. It will descend down, during the descent look for Masada to the south, this will be your first glimpse of the ancient fortress! The Masada fortress is on of the most popular sites in Israel for tourists. Most visitors climb up either by cable car or by the snake trail and go back down the same way. You will get to see Masada from the north and the west, a truly mesmerizing view and not one to take for granted!
After the descent the trail will head south (you will cross a small river that sometimes holds water pools). The trail is pretty easy, and you’ll be viewing Masada most of the way. After 3 easy kilometres you’ll meet the route heading to the entrance to Masada via the roman ramp from Arad (route 3199) and the trail will lead you parallel to this route. When you get to Masada you will have to pay for an entrance ticket. Here you can decide if you want to go down by the cable car or by the snake trail (both are great options). From here just climb up the roman ramp and you’re in the fortress!
The trail on the second day leading up to Masada from the Birkat Zfira campsite isn’t too long (about 12 kilometres) and can take you about 5-6 hours. Make sure to get to Masada before closing hours, so you have time to roam around and enjoy the popular fortress. If you’d like a full day on Masada, you can stay a second night at the Masada West campsite and roam Masada the next day (you'll be able to fill up your water for the night at the entrance). You can find the campsite on the map link at the beginning of the guide. For opening hours, fees and more information check out Masada National Park.
Hope you enjoyed the trek, I would love to hear your thoughts about it! Contact me here! or comment below.
*Disclaimer*
It is the responsibility of the users of this website to be prepared for all possible conditions while trekking in Israel. Beware that conditions of trails may change day to day and season to season. All users of this website and its information assume full responsibility for their actions and judgments while trekking. The owner and authors of this site disclaims all liability including that of accident, loss, injury, or any other damage that may be sustained by anyone using the information contained on this website.