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I almost have no words to describe my deep connection to these mountains. This is where I learned to love and connect with nature. On Shlomo Mountain I felt my first fear of heights, on top of Neshef mountains I danced with all my heart, in the Netafim river I witnessed a great flashflood, on the Zfahot mountain I fell in love with the Red Sea. The incredible thing about this area is that the Eilat desert is an EXTREME desert, it rains on average 30 m”m a year!! So, the mountains are completely bare and naked here, there is nothing there but yourself, your beliefs, the sky, the wind, the valleys and mountains, the occasional acacia tree and small desert plants and animals. It really is the place to find yourself. If you finish your travels in these mountains on the rocky beaches of the Red Sea you’ll be rewarded with a great and unpredictable jungle teeming with life underwater – the coral reef. The contrast between the two- the mountains and sea- is almost unbelievable, and this is what makes these mountains so magnificent. On every peak, you’ll find a view that is wondrous and breathtaking. If I had to pick one trek that surmounts them all, this would be it.
This trek is located in the north part of the Eilat Mountains (about a twenty-minute drive from Eilat, the city). The trek begins at the Neshef Mountains, where you’ll see the Red Sea for the first time. You’ll hike down into the Shani riverbed, where you’ll meet limestone riverbanks while walking on a sandstone riverbed. The trek will lead you in the Raham Wadi and you’ll enjoy some shade under palm trees. The first day ends down below near the rift valley at a small intimate campsite. The second day takes you on a long adventure first up the Amir Mountain (the only sandstone mountain in the area), from there to the Shchoret (black) granite canyon and Mountain, down again into the Netafim river, up the Mapalim river and the grand finale of the day- Shlomo Mountain. The second campsite is a very windy campsite called Yehoram. From the second campsite you’ll dive into the dramatic Gishron river, from there you’ll witness the great fence between Israel and Egypt snaking up the mountains. The trail will take you up the Gishron ascent and finally up to the Zfahot mountain, where you’ll feel as if you can already touch the Red Sea. From there the trail will lead you down to the rocky beaches of the Red Sea where you can enjoy a beer, french fries and wonderful snorkeling (or diving) experiences!
Trek Summary
Days: 3
Kilometres: 45
Best Season: Autumn to Spring
Difficulty Level: Difficult
Geographical Area in Israel: The Eilat Mountains
The important details you need to know in order to hike this trek:
Detailed map link
Seasons for Trekking
This trek is suitable (weather wise) from October to April. You should be aware that the Eilat Mountains can get really hot, even during the winter time. The best possible months to be trekking here is January to March. Be aware that flash floods can occur in this area during this season so make sure to check the weather report before you head out. Do not attempt to hike this trek during heavy rain. If you’re trekking in the early autumn to late spring make sure to check the weather for scorching hot days. Check out seasons in Israel for more information.
Transportation
This trek is accessible by public transportation, there is an official bus stop on the road leading to the beginning of the trek. You should be aware that there is not bus station here (although the official bus transportation website shows this bus stop as an option), and the bus driver might be surprised that you want to get off at this station. Make sure you’re specific and that he understands where you want to get off. You can take this bus from Be’er Sheva or from Eilat. For the starting point write down Eilat/Be’er Sheva and the destination should be “Har Uziya”, “Branching”. For the bus schedule and bus information here. Another option is to hitchhike to this point from Eilat, we easily hitchhiked, it took us about an hour to get there from Eilat. You can also take a taxi from Eilat, it should cost around 200 shekels, but check in advance. The Trek ends at the very south of Eilat, on the southern beach strip. From here you can take the only bus that passes by, which will take you to the Eilat Central Bus Station (bus number 16 or 30).
For more on trekking in Israel using public transportation here.
By car – You can leave your car at the beginning of the trek (Nesehf Mountains) or the end of the trek (near the field school there is a big free parking lot). Either way you’ll need to get back to your car by hitchhiking, bus or taxi.
Water Supply
You may find some pools along the trek in different river beds, but it is not advisable in Israel to drink from springs and pools. This is due to the fact that people swim in them, they may be contaminated by different animals and sometimes by factories that are far from the eye but can contaminate the springs and pools. When you trek in the desert, first of all use your water wisely. You should be carrying at least 4.5 litres per person per full day of trekking (6 if the weather is hot). Keep in mind that you need water for the campsites, for cooking and drinking during the night. On this trek you have water taps at two large campsites, so you can fill your waterbottles along the way, without having to pay for water caches.
You should plan on cooking by a portable stove, since burning any local vegetation is forbidden.
Food
You’ll have to carry your food with you for the three days. You can buy everything you need in Be’er Sheva or Eilat.
Precautions and Dangers
1. Flash floods - The desert area in Israel is prone to flash floods. The lack of vegetation in the desert and the type of soil make it hard for water to seep down. When there is enough rain in the desert, it flows on top of the surfaces to the lowest places- river beds. Most of the riverbeds in the desert are dry all year round, except for a few days when it rains. The rivers then come to life, and it is very dangerous to be hiking in a riverbed during a flash flood. In some areas it can be raining even a few kilometres upriver from where you are and the flash flood will come out of nowhere, splashing down the riverbed and taking everything it can with it. The tricky part about flash foods is that the riverbed does not flood gradually, it comes at you at lightning speed. Precautions for flash floods:
a. Check the weather in the destinated hiking area before you leave.
b. Do not attempt to hike if there is a rainy weather report.
c. If you do find yourself in the desert during heavy rain, make sure to get out of any riverbed near you, climb to the highest, safest point you can get to and contact someone for help. If there are flash floods around you, it can keep flowing for hours and even days, contact someone to get you out of there safely.
2. Heat stroke- It can get hot during the day in the desert, even in freezing January. The days are hot and the nights are cold. Make sure to always wear a sun hat, take long breaks in the shade and refreshen yourself in pools and springs along the way.
3. Dehydration- The desert can get really hot, and it is usually very dry. Even during the winter season, remember to drink a lot. Do not take less than 4.5 litres of water with you per day per person. You should wear sunglasses, a hat and a long-sleeved shirt. If you’re feeling dizzy, nauseous or/and have a headache, you’re probably dehydrated. Find a shade to rest and drink your water slowly and gradually.
4. Animals- There aren’t any big dangerous animals in the desert. Beware of snakes and scorpions, especially during the spring time and around your campsite. In the morning shake your boots before you put them on and beware when you pick up rocks.
5. Nature reserves- The whole trek inside the amazing nature reserve of the Eilat Mountains. Make sure you know the basic guidelines fore trekking in nature reserves.
If you find yourself in an emergency situation, you can call for help. Call 100 for the police and they can connect you with the regional rescue team. You can also call 101 for medical assistance. The direct number for the rescue team in the Eilat region is 050-6276442.
Trail Description
Day 1 (15.3 k”m)
Once you’re on route 12 (if you got here by bus or hitchhiking), at the Uziya bus station, you’ll find an asphalt road leading east. This road leads eventually to an army base. Walk along the road for about 1 k”m, until you see a blue trail mark and a signpost heading north to the Neshsef Mountains. Check out trail marks in Israel for more information.
Follow the blue trail up to the Nesehf Mountain, it’s about 600 metres from the road and only 100 metre climb. The view is wondrous, you’ll see west into Sinai (Egypt) and down south all the way to the Red Sea (where you’ll finish the trek in 3 days).
From the top, head down the blue trail for 500 metres, and take a right (west) at the junction with the black trail. This trail will lead you into the Shani riverbed. For the next 2 k”m follow the black trail, you’ll find yourself heading down a steep climb to the riverbed with the help of some ladders and narrow trails.
After 2 k”m you’ll meet the green trail inside the riverbed, take a right and head further west for the next 4 k”m along this great riverbed. The trail will be rocky with great boulders at some points, make sure to stay on the trail, it’s easier that way!
Once the river opens up a bit, you’ll find a junction with a red trail mark that you can take either south or north. Take the southern trail, heading to the Raham river pools (that are empty and shallow most of the year) and the Raham palm trees, right above the pools. When you’re on the red trail heading south, you’ll enjoy a spectacular view of the mountains surrounding you but make sure to also check the ground every once and a while – you’re sure to find some crazy fossils on this trail!
The red trail will take you above the Raham riverbed, until you meet the palm trees. At this point you’ll meet the Israel Nation Trail (and also a green trail). Follow the green and INT trails heading south, the green will quickly change to blue. You’ll be heading on the blue trail that becomes black (all the while along the INT) for the next 2.5 k”m. You’ll reach a big trail mark junction with the INT and black trail heading south, a green trail heading up an ascent and east and a red trail heading slightly north and descending. You want to take the red trail heading north and descending.
Once you’re down in the valley, you’ll meet a blue marked trail (that soon changes to black) that can lead you on a small detour to the Amram Pillars (about 700 metres one way). They’re beautiful, especially during the sunset, I would definitely recommend!
If you decided to skip them, just keep following the red marked trail to the Yocheved Hill campsite. This is a great, small, intimate camp site. There is no tap water here, you will have a tap the next morning near the Shoheret campsite. If you’re low on water, or if you don’t want to carry water with you for the night then you can sleep at the Shoheret campsite instead (it’s usually much more crowded with field trips and such). To reach the Shoheret campsite you can either go by the trail description as described on the beginning of the second day or skip back to the big junction before the descent and keep following the INT and the black trail and then the red trail heading to the Shoheret campsite.
Day 2 (17.7 k”m)
From the Yocheved campsite look for the green trail mark leading to Mt. Amir (there will be a sign. For the next 1.5 k”m follow the green trail (there are a few misleading points where you can easily lose the trail so stay focused). The trail will slowly ascend along beautiful sandstone rocks, you’ll find some turquoise rocks in between – that’s copper in its natural form!
From the ridge of Mt. Amir you’ll have a stunning view of the red sea again. From the ridge, take the blue trail mark heading down into the Amir riverbed, filled with sandstone formations and ladders to climb down and over the many dry waterfalls of the river.
After 2.5 k”m you’ll meet a dirt track marked green. Take a left and head west along the Shoheret river, you’ll see the campsite to your left and after another kilometre you’ll meet the tap water. Fill up your water bottles for a long day, you’ll meet your next tap at tonight’s campsite.
Right after the water faucet you’ll merge with the INT and the riverbed will suddenly narrow in the magnificent Shoheret canyon! You’ll meet some low dry waterfalls (with ladders) and great shade and granite rocks!
After 1.5 k”m you’ll the riverbed will widen again and you’ll meet a blue red and INT junction. Keep following the INT heading south and up the Shoheret ascent.
The ascent is almost 200 metres and can be arduous, especially with no shade on a sunny day (almost every day in the Eilat mountains), but the view is astonishing and worth every step. The red sea opens up and you’ll see to the south a great geological rift pushing two different layers together – the mountains to the west will appear white (limestone rocks) and the mountains to the east will be black (mostly consisting of granite rock).
At the end of the ascent the INT will gradually descend into the Roded river, where you’ll meet a signpost leading to a small detour to the Lost Canyon, a beautiful red sandstone canyon (it’s 500 metres each way). Once in the riverbed, follow the INT and the blue trail marks heading up to a small ridge along some great acacia trees (which offer a relief from the sun). When you’re on the ridge you’ll meet a junction with a black trail that merges with the INT, follow the INT and the black trail marks ascending into a small granite canyon for the next kilomtre. After a kilometre you’ll reach the Netafim riverbed and a junction, at this point leave the INT, and take a left (east) along the green trail marks, downriver. The Netafim riverbed is beautiful, rocky, with lots of boulders and small dry waterfalls.
After 1.5 k”m the river will open up a bit and you’ll meet a junction with a blue trail mark heading west into the Mapalim river (there should also be a signpost). Follow the blue trail, it will lead you upriver for a 450 metre ascent to Mt. Shlomo. You’ll find along the blue trail a handful of dry granite waterfalls which you’ll have to climb (via ladders usually) and towards the end you’ll clambering up between loose rocks and boulders.
After a long ascent, you’ll find yourself on top of one of the few peaks of the Shlomo mountain, one of the most rewarding climbs that the Eilat mountains have to offer. Eilat and Aqaba (the neighboring city in Jordon) will lay spread out below you, along with the incredible blue of the Red Sea.
Once you’re done enjoying the views, you can start climbing down the mountain along the blue trail, this can be a knee-breaking descent along small loose rocks and some ladders helping you down. After 350 metres, at the ridge, you’ll meet a junction, follow the black trail marks. These will lead you to the Yehoram ridge and mountain (on the ridge you’ll change into limestone rocks, crossing over a complicated geological rift that is 500 million years old, in just one step!).
You’ll reach the Yehoram campsite after almost 2 k”m from the ridge. This campsite has running water and even ecological bathrooms. It’s also really windy up here, be prepared for a cold night!
Day 3 (14.5 k”m)
From the Yehoram campsite I hiked along route 12 for 500 metres (west) to reach the INT and black trail. At the junction I opted for the black trail which is more interesting than the INT at this section. If you don’t have much time, the INT is shorter. The black trail will lead you into the Gishron riverbed which is full of red sandstone boulders, you’ll meet a small arechology site – a leopard trap (leopards haven’t been spotted in these areas for a few centuries).
After about 2.5 k”m you’ll merge with the INT again to a grand lookout over the Gishron river (which now snakes into Egypt, you’ll be able to spot from close up the massive fence built between the two countries). The INT (which will also be marked blue) will take you along a ridge above the Gishron river, eventually leading you back into the river (that flows back into Israel) after 1.8 k”m.
The trail will lead you along the Gishron riverbed along tall dry waterfalls that you’ll climb down via ladders and great acacia trees. There are ancient inscribings on the walls of the riverbed all along the trail, keep your eyes open to spot them!
After 2.5 k”m you’ll start climbing the Gishron ascent, a 120 metre climb, at the top you’ll meet an incredible view of the impressive Rehavam hill and the Shlomo mountain behind it.
From the lookout follow the INT (and black trail) south along the ridge, you’ll meet a new asphalt road (that was built for the border fence), you’ll change to a red trail mark along the road for 200 metres and then snake up the path along the Bulbusim ridge, where you’ll have another great lookout.
From the lookout hike along the ridge and then valley floors, along the INT and red and later black trails). After 2.5 k”m, you’ll merge with a green trail mark (still the INT) ascending to Mt. Tzfachot. Get ready to be blown away by the views from this mountain ridge. The red sea will lay before you like a blanket. If it’s a good clear day you’ll be able to see deep into Aqabe and the Edom mountains, and to the south you’ll catch a glimpse of Saudi Arabia (the border between the two lies near the smoking chimneys).
From the mountain the trail will descend abruptly and then gradually down to the red sea. If you finish early I recommend running straight to the sea, get undressed and dive right in, I can compare no other feeling to the pure bliss of finishing an arduous trek like this with a dip in the red sea. Best of all – sit on the beach during the sunset, the Edom mountains flash red and reflect along the sea, a beautiful moment. You can enjoy the sea in a few places: 1. Aqua sport beach (where you can also enjoy a beer and fries).
2. The nature reserve (costs entrance and has closing hours) 3. Migdalor beach, a great snorkeling spot where you can also enjoy some food.
4. All the beaches south to the Migdalor are great and very quiet and serene. You can even wild camp at some of these beaches, just go by the signs because camping is not allowed everywhere.
If you’re already in the Eilat area, here are a few things you do not want to miss:
1. Diving!! If you have a diving license, the red sea has an amazing coral reef, I would recommend Snuba as the place to rent out the equipment and guide if you need, they’re a small diving center so the place is intimate and friendly. Here’s a link to their site: https://www.snuba.co.il/?lang=en
2. If you’re into snorkeling – you’ve trekked to the right place! It’s beautiful everywhere, I especially recommend the south beaches, after the Migdalor restaurant. You can rent out the equipment at any of the diving centers around you.
3. Looking for another great trek in the area?? The Timna Trek is incredible and includes a lot of archeology and a different insight to the Eilat Mountains! https://www.trekkingthroughisrael.com/post/timna-valley-trek
4. If you want to experience the sea a bit differently, the underwater observatory marine park Eilat is a great choice! A bit expensive, but I think it’s worth it. https://coralworld.co.il/en/
Hope you enjoyed the trek, I would love to hear your thoughts about it! Contact me here! or comment below.
*Disclaimer*
It is the responsibility of the users of this website to be prepared for all possible conditions while trekking in Israel. Beware that conditions of trails may change day to day and season to season. All users of this website and its information assume full responsibility for their actions and judgments while trekking. The owner and authors of this site disclaims all liability including that of accident, loss, injury, or any other damage that may be sustained by anyone using the information contained on this website.